Chinese Ruqun Guide: Definition, Structure, Style And Design Feature
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Ruqun, as one of the classics of ancient Chinese women’s clothing, carries a profound history and culture and unique aesthetic taste. It is not only a kind of clothing, but also a symbol of the long history and cultural tradition of the Chinese nation. This article will take you deep into the world of Ruqun, from its historical origin to its structural design to its diverse styles, and explore the charm of this classic dress.
What is Ruqun？
Ruqun, composed of the top “ruqun” and the bottom skirt, is one of the main daily clothing of Han women in ancient China.
Ru: Ru is a collared or cross-collared jacket, usually designed with wide cuffs and a front, the cuffs can be wide or narrow, according to different times and regions vary.
Qun(Skirts): Skirts are usually long skirts, around the waist, hemmed down to the ankles, and may have slit sides for easy walking. The material and decoration of the dress also changed with The Times.
How do you wear Ruqun Hanfu?
Step 1:
Put on the Top (Ru) Lay the top (Ru) flat, ensuring that the opening of the crossover or symmetrical design is facing forward. Put on the Ru, depending on its design, you may need to either pull it over your head or slide it in from your shoulders. Adjust the position of the Ru to ensure it sits comfortably at your waist or slightly lower.
Step 2:
Tie the Waistband Wrap the waistband around your waist, if it’s a buckle belt, thread the excess through the buckle and adjust to the desired tightness. If using a ribbon or cord belt, tie a knot or bow as needed.
Step 3:
Put on the Skirt (Qun) Spread out the skirt, ensuring that the front of the waistband is facing forward. Pull the skirt up from the ankles until the waistband reaches your waist. Secure the skirt around your waist, adjusting to the appropriate tightness if it’s elastic or has fasteners; tie a knot or bow if it’s secured with a cord or ribbon.
Step 4:
Adjust the Skirt Hem Ensure the skirt wraps evenly around your waist, with the hem naturally hanging down. If the skirt has slits, ensure they are positioned correctly for ease of walking.
Step 5:
Check the Overall Effect Stand and walk to ensure the Ruqun is comfortable and does not restrict movement. Check the neckline, waistband, and skirt hem for neatness, adjusting for the best appearance.
What are the parts of a Ruqun?
Upper Garment (Tops)
Collar Style: The collar of the Ru is typically a crossover collar, where the left and right pieces of the garment cross over in front of the chest, with the right side of round collar overlapping the left side to create a symmetrical neckline.
Sleeve Style: The sleeves of the Ru can be narrow, straight collar or wide, depending on the era and fashion trends.
Garment Body: The body of the Ru is generally straight-cut and loose-fitting, typically reaching to the waist or slightly below to allow for movement.
Front Closure: The front closure of the Ru can be symmetrical or asymmetrical, sometimes featuring decorative elements such as embroidery or trim.
Lower Skirt
Skirt Style: The skirt is typically a long skirt that wraps around the waist, extending to the ankles or the ground, with possible side slits for ease of movement.
Skirt Waist: The skirt is secured at the waist with a belt or sash, which can be made of fabric or other materials such as silk or leather.
Skirt Pleats: The skirt may have fine pleats, which can be fixed or movable, varying according to the era and style.
Skirt Hem: The hem of the skirt may feature decorative edges such as embroidery, lace, or other embellishments.
Decoration and Accessories
Belt: In addition to securing the skirt, the belt itself can be decorative, sometimes adorned with jewels, buttons, or other ornaments.
Shawl: During certain periods, such as the Tang Dynasty, the Ru may be paired with a shawl, adding layers and dynamic beauty to the attire.
Headwear: When wearing the Ru, women may accessorize with headwear such as hairpins or hair clasps, coordinated with the Ru.
Chinese Ruqun Design Guide
Shape
The tops part of the skirt is usually a cross-collar design, that is, the left and right front of the jacket crossed over the chest, the right side of the jacket over the left side, forming a symmetrical neckline.
The tops of the skirt is generally loose and not close to the body to facilitate activity.
The lower skirt is usually a full-length dress, length to the ankle or the ground, on both sides may have a split, which is convenient to walk and adds to the elegant sense of clothing.
Ornamentation
The patterns on the skirt are varied, with traditional forms including embroidery, brocade, printing and dyeing, etc. The common patterns are auspicious patterns such as flowers and birds, moire, dragon and phoenix. These patterns are not only beautiful, but also have auspicious meanings.
Color
Ruqun’s color collocation pay attention to harmony, common red, sapphire blue, green and other bright colors, there are simple elegant black, white and gray and other simple colors. The choice and combination of colors reflect the identity and taste of the wearer.
Materials Seletion
Jackets come in a variety of materials, both traditional silk, satin, but also cotton and linen. Silk and satin jackets are smooth, soft and shiny, while cotton and linen jackets are more comfortable and breathable.
The Styles of Ruqun
QiXiong Ruqun (齐 胸 襦 裙)
Chest-length ruqun was very popular in the Tang Dynasty. The design of Chest-length Ruqun not only reflects the confidence and openness of women in the Tang Dynasty, but also conforms to the pursuit of loose, comfortable and beautiful clothes at that time.
The ruqun of chest-length ruqun was usually short, with the bottom just covering the chest, and then tied tightly with a belt or ribbon above the chest to create a chest-length effect.
Skirt:Skirts are usually long skirts with wide hemlines that can swing with the wearer’s movements to show graceful lines.
Belt: The belt was not only used to hold the jacket in place, but was also the focus of decoration, often decorated with elaborate buttons or jewelry.
Neckline:The neckline of a chest-length jacket may be crossed or opposite, depending on personal preference and the fashion trend of the time.
Sleeve Cuffs: The sleeve design is varied, can be narrow sleeve or wide sleeve, wide sleeve is more elegant, narrow the sleeve length is capable.
QiYao Ruqun (齐腰襦裙)
Chest-length ruqun were popular in the Song Dynasty. The dress culture of Song Dynasty paid more attention to introversion and implicateness. Compared with Tang Dynasty, women’s dress of Song Dynasty paid more attention to simplicity and practicality.
Upper Garment: The upper garment (Ru) of a waist-length Ruqun typically extends to the waist, without constricting the chest, giving a natural hanging feeling.
Skirt: The skirt is generally a long skirt, reaching to the ankles or the ground, with possible side slits.
Belt: The belt is used to secure the skirt, adjusting the tightness to ensure comfortable and well-fitting wear. The belt itself can also serve as decoration, possibly adorned with jewels or other ornaments.
Neckline and Sleeve Cuffs: The neckline of a waist-length Ruqun may be a crossover or parallel collar, while the sleeve cuffs can be narrow or wide, depending on personal preference and prevailing fashion trends.
Banbi Ruqun (Half-Sleeve Ruqun)
Half-sleeve ruqun became popular during the Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties. During this period, the clothing culture was influenced by the Hufu Sinization, and the clothing style changed, with more jackets of different styles such as open-digs and narrow sleeves.
Top Length: The length of the Ruqun typically reaches the waist or slightly beyond, creating a distinct separation between the top and the skirt.
Skirt: The skirt is usually long, extending to the ankles or the ground, with possible slits on the sides.
Waistband: Used to secure the skirt and adjust its tightness, ensuring comfortable and snug wear. The waistband itself may also serve as a decorative element, adorned with jewels or other embellishments.
Collar and Cuffs: The collar of the half-sleeve Ruqun may feature a crossover or symmetrical design, while the cuffs can be narrow or wide, depending on personal preference and contemporary fashion trends.
Sleeves: Half-sleeve Ruqun features sleeves that are relatively short, usually extending only to or above the elbows.
In addition, according to the collar, it can be divided into Dui-Iin Ruqun, Cross-collar ruqun, Tan-Ling Ruqun.
Dui-Iin Ruqun：The front of the jacket is divided into two pieces, left and right symmetry, the middle can be opened, easy to wear and take off. Ruqun Tuqun is not only a practical choice of clothing, but also reflects the simple aesthetics of ancient Han women in clothing and the pursuit of comfort
Cross-collar Ruqun: The Ruqun is characterized by a crossed collar and neckline, that is, the left and right skirts overlap each other, forming an elegant neck line. This style was very popular in ancient Han clothing, especially in the Tang Dynasty.
Tan-Ling-Ruqun: The most important feature of Tan-Ling ruqun is that the upper ruqun’s neckline design is relatively wide and open, and the neckline is low, which can reveal part of the chest or the underwear worn inside, so it is named “Tan Ling”.
Men's RuQun VS Women's Ruqun, What is Difference?
Style Design
Men’s Ruqun: Typically simpler and looser, emphasizing practicality and comfort. The top (Ru) of men’s Ruqun may feature a symmetrical or crossover design, with sleeves that are often loose for ease of movement.The skirt (Qun) typically reaches the ankles and may have slits on the sides for walking convenience.
Women’s Ruqun: Design focuses more on smooth lines and decoration. The top of women’s Ruqun may adopt a crossover or symmetrical design, with sleeves that are more fitted or adorned with decorative edges. The skirt design may be more elaborate, with patterns such as striped or intricate pleats to showcase elegance and gracefulness.
Wearing Style
Men’s Ruqun: Emphasis may be on the functionality of clothing, such as ease of movement and work. The use of waistbands may be simpler for quick dressing and undressing.
Women’s Ruqun: Emphasis may be on the aesthetic and decorative effects of clothing. Waistbands or waistbands may be more delicate, adorned with jewels or other decorations to add to the gorgeousness of the outfit.
Material and Decoration
Men’s Ruqun: Materials may be heavier, such as cotton or linen, with colors and patterns being more understated to reflect a sense of steadiness and introversion in men.
Women’s Ruqun: Materials may be lighter and softer, such as silk or satin, with colors and patterns being richer and brighter to showcase femininity and liveliness.
The History Of Ruqun
The ruqun is said to have originated in ancient times of China, but the earliest kind of ruqun discovered by archeologists is from the Warring States period. During this period, the ruqun was mostly the shape of the blouse, which could be worn by both men and women, and the men’s ruqun usually referred to the “clothes” under the blouse.
Qin & Han dynasties
During the Qin and Han dynasties, the style of Ruqun became more rich and mature. A common pairing in women’s clothing is a combination of jackets and skirts, which feature waists — a clear horizontal edge at the hem.
The ruqun of the Han Dynasty was usually very short, reaching only to the waist, while the skirt was very long and hung down to the ground.
Wei & Jin dynasties
During the period of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, the style of the skirt continued to evolve, the upper jacket was multi-used on the front, the collar and sleeves liked to add colorful embroidery, and the cuffs were narrow or wide; Waist with a girth called it waist, bundle ribbon; The lower skirt fabric is more colorful than that of the Han Dynasty.
With the rise of Buddhism, lotus flowers, honeysuckle and other patterns appeared in large numbers on clothing.
Sui & Tang dynasties
During the Sui and Tang dynasties, the styles of Ruqun became more varied and ornate. Skirts of the Tang Dynasty were mostly high-waisted or corset, styles close to the hips, wide swing to the ground, and multi-pleated oblique skirts with rounded curves at the bottom. Skirts are the main clothing of women in the Tang Dynasty.
The new style of skirts, the many colors, the fine materials, and the beautiful patterns all reached an unprecedented level.
Song Dynasty
During the Song Dynasty, Cheng Zhu Neo-Confucianism was flourishing, and the clothing was attributed to light elegance and less ornamentation. Waist from the Tang chest return to the waist above the position.
The popularity of wearing Ruqun also straightened women’s curves, making them more stable and rational.
Ming Dynasty
During the Ming Dynasty, ruqun evolved into a Ruqun skirt, characterized by cross-collared, long-sleeved short clothes. Advocating light dark pattern, and gradually developed into plain color.
The pleats of the skirt are dense and beautiful, each pleat is a different color, the breeze blows, the color is like the moon, so it is called “moon pleated skirt””.
Modern Ruqun
At present, Ruqun’s design pays more attention to the combination of individuality and fashion elements. On the basis of retaining traditional elements, modern Hanfu fans have added modern design concepts, making the Ruqun more in line with modern people’s aesthetic and wearing habits.
Conclusion
The change of Ruqun style not only reflects the aesthetic pursuit of ancient Chinese clothing, but also ADAPTS to the living habits and cultural requirements of society at that time.
From the pre-Qin Dynasty to the Ming dynasty and Qing dynasties, Ruqun, as an important part chinese history of Chinese women’s clothing, has been constantly evolving and developing, showing the profound heritage of Chinese culture and the spirit of innovation.
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